We are still basking in the warm glow of the wonderful hospitality of Alfredo and Irene at the “Bar Via de la Plata” yesterday evening. At 9:30 p.m., Irene dropped by to wish us “Good Night”. Manuel and I were enjoying fresh melon for a late dessert. Irene takes a maternal interest in “her Pilgrims”. She chatted pleasantly with us freely dispensing useful advice. Then, on leaving us, she was magnificent. She kissed us each on both cheeks, offering hers in return. Then, with her thumb, she “anointed” us both making the sign of the cross on our foreheads like priests do on Ash Wednesday. It was an amazingly genuine and innocent gesture. Manuel observed when she left, “I think she is a saint.” I felt blessed, truly like never before. So prepared, I fell quickly into a deep, restful, and much needed sleep.
Sleep needed because today we walked 48 kilometers (30 miles!) to Baños de Montemayor (KM 431)—the longest Pilgrim day I’ve ever walked. Our 48 kilometer pilgrim way took us right through the four squared triumphal arch at Cáparra at mid day with its adjacent excavated ruins of an old Roman city. At Baños, we’ve reached the highest elevation on our Silver Way yet, 700 meters higher than Seville. Cool winds off these heights kept today refreshingly cool.
