It wouldn’t be accurate to call conditions here in Valdesalor (Km 287) “Spartan”. There is nothing Grecian about them. Today our desert odyssey took Manuel and I over Two Roman arched bridges and past a near half dozen “Milarios”, or original mile post markers from the ancient Roman Road. We slept in this morning at the Sorrowful Heart Pilgrims Albergue at Alquéscar behind doors locked till 6:30 a.m. so we have made a good many of our pilgrim miles today under the hot sun.
Our reward is a free refugio at the local soccer field. It’s a parched, lifeless playing surface that probably hasn’t seen a green blade of grass or well kicked ball in years. My first day out of Seville, philosophical German Pilgrim Johann, nearing 70, told me, “After the third day, the heat no longer matters.” It does matter, but not as much, and not at all if you accept it and adapt accordingly. I’m thinking about moving ahead on my own, leaving Manuel’s often philosophically stoic company. I feel I’m close to ready. Morning is dark and beautiful, and also what is toughest alone. I think about my 87 year father who loves the “thirty mile view” from his Morelia, Mexico, retirement sun deck. It doesn’t matter that he really can’t see thirty miles or that his beautiful garden would dry up and wither away if he stopped watering it. He has imagination and belief. On those foundations we build in our lives the refuges that we need. Here in Valdesalor, we have the municipal swimming pool next to our desiccated soccer patch and, for this moment on earth, we can be happy. Tired feet and muscles enjoy a flutter kick in cool water just as if it were a top dollar massage.
