Among other eccentric things about the Hogar de Peregrinos Santa Maria Casa Paroquial Refugio in Fuenterroble de Salvatierre (KM 464) is that it flies an American Flag. A sign tells you that at the request of “American Friends of the Camino” and Congressman James P. Moran, this same flag was flown in honor of Don Blas Rodriguez over the U.S. capitol in Washington on February 10, 2009. Don Blas, a priest, has been instrumental in the development of the Via de la Plata and its Seville “Friends” Chapter. Some of the priests ashes are interred in the wall of the Refugio so arriving here is a pilgrimage in itself.* Emilio, the Refugio hospitalero, has given me a tour of his workshop where he collects and restores metal artifacts.
This town, in Salamanca province and my first overnight stop outside of Extremadura, is 955 meters above sea level. The elevation is starting to pay dividends. I’ve had my second cool day in a row. I’ve even just now taken my first heated shower of the Via de la Plata.
The church in Fuenterroble is open and elegantly basic. It has only two rows of wooden pews and they don’t match. Behind them are three more rows of assorted chairs, some wooden, some even of the white plastic lawn chair variety. Together, the five rows may seat 30 to 40 people comfortably. It felt to me like God might reside in such a simple place.
I did way finding on my own today, feeling good. It’s been a while since a giant bull burst out of the early morning darkness at me. Startled, you discover they are statutes, fifteen or twenty meters high, advertising with no signage. They are hawking an Andalucían wine whose brand is so well established that no sloganeering is necessary.
The Refugio cat is helping me pen this message, purring and licking my fingers, robbing my thoughts of any greater substance.
*Note: It has been suggested to me by others that Don Blas Rodriguez is still alive. I cannot account for this conflicting information.
