Church steeple and smoke stack topping nests provide plenty of evidence that storks reside in Spain during part of the year but there are none to be seen in August. They are temporarily enjoying more temperate climes in parts far to the north. AJ and I are residing in a pleasant modern refugio here in Vilar de Barrio (KM 856) tonight. The town has a focus but not quite the standard Plaza Major square. People are spread out in bars fronting crossroads parque. It’s Sunday evening and everyone is relaxed. Portugal is just to our west and the dialect here resembles Portuguese: “Spanish spoken with a mouthful,” they say.
We were told to knock at “No. 17” opposite the refugio to find a good weekend afternoon pre-siesta meal. Nothing about its street façade or, even its cool, cavernous high ceilinged front room interior betrayed the commercial character of this place. But inside “Senorita Carmen”, gentle, grandmotherly, and all by herself, made us feel welcome. Our meal was copiously bread, appetizers, chicken, potatoes, salad, ice cream, fruit, wine (two bottles), purified water (two more bottles), and … kindness—all for less than ten Euros each. Bill paid, and at no extra charge, a specialty liqueur cocktail appeared. Magical.
